Time to crack open some sparkles. I was down in Somerset a few weeks ago, and stopped by a farm shop where I found some Exmoor Brut, a sparkling wine from the County. I’d never heard of Dunkery Vineyards, and the farm shop assistant was quite insistent that I double check the price as it was £13, not £3. It seemed reasonable to me, it’s not easy growing Pinot Noir in England, though it seems to be getting easier as the world warms up.
It was a pale lemon gold with plenty of persistent bubbles. It smelled yeasty, very yeasty, marmite and feet with some lemony citrus. The bubbles feel smooth in the mouth, and it’s just off dry with perhaps a little too much acidity but not an offensive amount. Medium bodied with more yeasty bread and zippy lemons, there was a hint of softer summer fruits.
Exmoor Brut is a good wine, and it would hold its own against cheap Champagne and Cava. If it’s anything like other English sparkling wines it’ll get better quickly.
If Pendleton, Hoy, Wiggins and the squad were choosing a wine to celebrate tonight, I’d be happy to give them this, though I feel they deserve Nyetimber, it’s worth seeking out.