Graham’s 1983 Vintage Port

By | June 11, 2006

Portugal are the obvious choice for today’s World Cup wine producer, and as it is Sunday I thought I’d choose something special.

Port is Portugal’s best export, and Graham’s 1983 Vintage Port is its Luis Figo.

Despite being over 21 it has a rich deep ruby core heading out to garnet with a mahogany rim. There are some deposits despite double decanting, but nothing to get upset about, the thick ruby legs on the side of the glass look divine.

The wine a pronounced, rich dark fruit aroma, with spice and smoke. Sweet and warming with 20% alcohol, it has wonderfully balanced acidity, keeping it lively. This much extract means high tannins, even after 20 years in the bottle but they’re soft, ripe and beautifully integrated.

The flavour is all about richness, cooked plums, dark fruit, Christmas cake and even a smidge of dark chocolate. It stays on the tongue for ages, stifling conversation a little.

This is very good wine, it’s balanced, the flavours and well integrated and it tastes heavenly. It even feels wonderful in the mouth. It’s drinking well now but could keep for another 4 or 8 years, giving Portugal time to win a World Cup.

You can pick up a bottle for £40, try your local wine merchant. Berry Brothers & Rudd will charge you an extra £10.