Il Trullo Copertino Riserva

By | February 4, 2009

We decided to buck the recession and go out for dinner. We chose a local independent Italian, and had great food. We weren’t ready to provide the kind of fiscal stimulus to the local economy that a bottle of Barolo could offer, opting instead for a mid-priced Primitivo. I was looking forward to it, but our waiter came back to explain in heavily accented English that they were out of Primitivo but he recommended Il Trullo Copertino Rosso which was “ninety four percent the same thing, the same place, the same”. We took his recommendation.

He seemed to be right. The wine was just starting to turn a rusty colour, but it smelled of ripe, plump fruit, cherries, raspberries and loganberries – yes – loganberries. It was good. It had quite an acidic, tannic charachter, but it wasn’t overpowering in any way, the rich fruit carried it through though my dining partner felt it could use a spot more than the 13% alcohol it claimed.

Copertino DOC is down in the heel of Italy, in prime Primitivo territory, although it uses a blend of differnt grapes. What made the wine really special was the label which had been translated either by someone who had been paid in advance in wine or by Google. It was ‘generously wine’ with ‘aging processing giving secondary perfume’. I opted to enjoy it with swordfish rather than the ‘aged chees’ recommended on the label.